法国蕾丝介绍（法国17世纪开始生产的经典蕾丝）

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Chantilly lace 尚蒂伊蕾丝是以法国城市Chantilly尚蒂伊命名的，这种手工制作的蕾丝传统从17世纪就开始了，尽管闻名于世是在18世纪。虽然以尚蒂伊来命名，其实大部分蕾丝产于法国的贝叶和比利时的Geraardsbergen。

Chantilly lace is a handmade bobbin lace named after the city of Chantilly,France, in a tradition dating from the 17th century,though the most famous are silk laces introduced in the 18th century. Though called Chantilly lace, most of the lace bearing this name was actually made in Bayeux in France and Geraardsbergen, now in Belgium.

Ephemeral Elegance Chantilly Lace Ball Gown, ca. 1868

Antique Civil War Era Black Silk French Chantilly Lace Pagoda Sleeve Jacket, 1860's

Chantilly Lace and Tulle Gown, ca. 1905

mid 19th century, French, Chantilly silk bobbin lace

Chantilly lace is known for its fine ground, outlined pattern,and abundant detail.The pattern is outlined in cordonnet, a flat untwisted strand.The best Chantilly laces were made of silk, and were generally black,which made them suitable for mourning wear.

尚蒂伊蕾丝以其精细的底纹，轮廓图案和丰富的细节而闻名。这种蕾丝是以粗丝线cordonnet——一种扁平的无捻股线来绣出图案轮廓。最好的尚蒂伊蕾丝是由真丝制成的，并且一般都是黑色的，这使得它们适合搭配丧服穿着。

White Chantilly lace was also made, both in linen and silk,though most Chantilly laces were made of silk.The black silk Chantilly lace became especially popular,and there was a large market for it in Spain and the Americas. Chantilly and the Spanish laces (such as blonde lace) were the most popular black laces.

白色的尚蒂伊蕾丝也生产，亚麻和真丝的都有，尽管大多数尚蒂伊蕾丝由真丝制成。黑色的尚蒂伊蕾丝变得特别受欢迎，在西班牙和美洲有很大的市场。尚蒂伊蕾丝和西班牙蕾丝（如金色蕾丝）是最流行的黑色蕾丝。

I.D. Sarrieri La Robe Noire Chantilly lace bodysuit

1950s Brown Tulle Chantilly Lace Cocktail Dress 1

1915 Cocktail Dress Chantilly Lace

Another notable thing about Chantilly lace is the use of a half-and-whole stitch as a fill to achieve the effect of light and shadow in the pattern,which was generally of flowers. The background, or réseau, was in the form of a six pointed star,and was made of the same thread as the pattern, unlike the otherwise similar blonde lace.The lace was produced in strips approximately four inches wide, and then joined with a stitch that left no visible seam.

尚蒂伊蕾丝的另一个值得注意的地方是用一个半针脚作为填充来实现花样中的阴影效果，通常是花朵。底纹，或者说réseau，是六角星的形式，采用与花样图案相同的线制成，不像其它类似的花边。蕾丝花边的宽度大约是四英寸宽的条状，缝合接缝处没有明显的痕迹。

Anne Geneviève de Bourbon (28 August 1619 – 5 April 1679) was a French princess who is remembered for her beauty and amours, her influence during the civil wars of the Fronde, and her final conversion to Jansenism.

安妮·吉纳维芙·波旁（1619年8月28日 - 1679年4月5日）是一位法国公主，因为她的美貌，她在弗隆德内战中的影响力以及她最终转变为詹森主义而被铭记。

上图这位公主，就是Longueville公爵夫人，她在17世纪首先组织生产尚帝伊蕾丝，从那时起直到今天。

这种蕾丝变得流行是因为公爵夫人的大力赞助以及尚帝伊这个城市靠近巴黎，在路易十五和路易十六时期又重新流行起来。

In the 17th century, the Duchesse de Longueville organised the manufacture of lace at Chantilly.It has been produced from then until the present day. It became popular because of the duchesse's patronage and Chantilly's proximity to Paris and came into fashion again during the reigns of Louis XV and Louis XVI.

It was a special favorite of Louis XV's last mistress, Mme du Barry, and of Marie Antoinette.When the French Revolution began in 1789, demand for the lace ceased. The lace-makers were seen as protégés of the royals, and after Mme du Barry and Marie Antoinette were guillotined in 1793, the lace-makers of Chantilly were themselves killed.At this point production ceased.

尚帝伊蕾丝也是路易十五的最后一位情妇——杜巴利伯爵夫人的心头所爱，还有玛丽·安托瓦内特......当1789年法国大革命开始时，蕾丝的生产停止了，蕾丝制造者们被视为皇室成员，1793年杜巴利伯爵夫人和玛丽·安托瓦内特被囚禁后，尚蒂伊的蕾丝制造者们自杀身亡。

让娜·贝库，杜巴利伯爵夫人（法语：Jeanne Bécu, Comtesse du Barry，1743年8月19日－1793年12月8日）法王路易十五的情妇，也是恐怖统治时期中最知名的受害者之一。

Napoleon I sponsored a revival of Chantilly lace between the years 1804 and 1815.At this point production was concentrated in Normandy, mainly around the Bayeux area. While it was no longer being made in Chantilly, all of the old techniques and designs were used.Chantilly lace reached the height of its popularity around 1830 and was revived again in the 1860s, at which point it was made at Bayeux as well as at Geraardsbergen, in Belgium.

拿破仑一世在1804年至1815年间赞助了尚蒂伊蕾丝的复兴。此时生产主要集中在诺曼底的巴约地区。虽然尚蒂伊城市已不再生产这种蕾丝，但所有的传统技术和设计都被复兴使用了。

尚帝伊蕾丝在1830年左右达到了人气高峰，并于1860年代再次复兴，从此时起它在贝叶和比利时的Geraardsbergen生产。

1880 chantilly lace and silk velvet shawl

1940's Black Chantilly Lace Illusion Bodice Dress

Dovima in black Chantilly lace and pure silk taffeta dress by Seymour Jacobson, Vogue, November 1, 1952

1958 Suzy Parker in a black Chantilly lace dress

This chantilly lace **Marchesa** gown features a bugle beaded corset and a fishtail skirt with tulle inserts at the hem.

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