百达翡丽超级复杂功能手表（百达翡丽也做不锈钢手表）

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发条鱼原创翻译

Back in 2014, Patek Philippe announced that the Chronograph Annual Calendar 5960 watch would be newly available in steel, in a move that makes sense for a brand that wants to appeal to a younger customer base in an already self-selective buyer's market. Not particularly for pricing concerns, but precious metals make it pretty much impossible for a watch to feel “sporty” in any way, let alone such a complicated watch like the 5960. In 2017, they released this, the Patek Philippe 5960/1A Annual Calendar Chronograph watch with a black dial. The result is the natural progression of what the brand intended with their desire to capture a younger market, and in my opinion it’s an aesthetic improvement and refinement.

早在2014年，百达翡丽就宣布5960计时年历腕表的不锈钢款将于最近上市，百达翡丽想要在自主选择手表品牌的市场中吸引到更年轻的目标消费者，出不锈钢款也无可厚非了！ 不考虑价格因素，贵金属手表是很难做成运动风的，更不用说5960功能还那么复杂！2017年，百达翡丽发布了这款“百达翡丽5960 / 1A”年历计时腕表，黑色表盘。这是品牌想要抓年轻市场的自然进展，而且在我看来，这也是一个美学上的改进和完善。

The original 5960, released in 2006 was the first in-house chronograph produced by Patek so it’s not surprising that the brand would want to make sure they get these steel iterations just right in that it pleases collectors, enthusiasts, and of course, aspirational watch fans. The opaline/silver dial with black and red touches was a success but I don’t think I’m alone in preferring the newer black dial watch. Sporty, modern, and carrying an undoubtedly impressive movement, Patek has successfully created a lust worthy piece here for those of us who respect tradition without being burdened by the weight of dusty and unchanging style.

2006年发布的第一版5960是百达翡丽生产的第一款计时码表，百达翡丽是想确保这枚钢款的发布能够取悦那些手表收藏家，爱表人士，当然还有狂热的表迷。带黑色和红色时标刻度的银色或者说乳白色表盘设计还是很成功的，但我觉得我肯定不是唯一一个更喜欢这款黑色表盘手表的表友。更运动，更现代，并且搭载超凡机芯，百达成功为我们这种爱表人士打造出值得炫耀的手表，尊重传统，却不会囿于一成不变。

The 40.5mm wide and 13.5mm thick polished stainless steel case houses the deep ebony black opaline dial that is fortunately legible as well as attractive. The applied white gold hour markers, red seconds and chronograph hands, and white aspects of the monocounter at 6 o’clock keep the dial from being overwhelming considering how much is going on with the Patek Philippe 5960/1A.

40.5毫米宽和13.5毫米厚的抛光不锈钢表壳搭配乌木黑莹采表盘，非常吸睛而且易读时。考虑到5960/1A的动储时间，白金时标和红色秒针和6点钟方向的同轴计时器让表盘看起来没那么超负荷。

Things are flipped around from the silver dialed model, with the date/day/month apertures, hour markers, and outer ring of the monopusher contrasting against the black dial and looking a lot more harmonious. Personally, I felt the black framing of the date/day/month apertures on the previous model looked too stark. I think the best way I can put it is that they almost felt like black eyes on the face of the dial, though that might sound a little harsher than I intend.The power reserve indicator right at 12 o’clock still bothers me and just looks awkward, though the functional purpose of the complication is hard to deny.

这款腕表的颜色设计反差特别和谐，日期、星期、以及月份的显示窗口、时标和12小时计时圈都是乳白色，与乌木黑的表盘形成和谐对比。就我个人而言，我觉得第一款日期/日期/月份窗口的黑色框架看起来过于鲜明,就像表盘上长出的三只眼睛，当然这个说法有点夸张了。 12点钟位置的的动力储存显示我觉得有点别扭，看起来很笨拙，尽管是为了显示复杂的功能。

Something I have to add is the fact that I'm usually not the biggest fan of five-link bracelets, and this preference remains unchanged here. Above you can see the white gold and blue dial 5960, which I actually quite like on the leather strap, but the bracelet on the steel model is just not doing it for me. It is done as refined and as well as one can be though .

我想要补充一点，个人不太喜欢五排链的不锈钢表链，在百达翡丽新款这里也不例外。可以看到另外两款白金和蓝色的表盘，我特别喜欢他们配备的皮表带，不锈钢表链确实不太适合我。不过表链的做工还是非常精致的。

Seen from the caseback and adorned with a 21k gold rotor with the Patek Philippe seal, the in-house 28-520 IRM QA 24H movement is a mouthful, but a very impressive and significant one at that. Our David Bredan went into the movement when the previous steel model was introduced and I’ll repeat his summary of the movement here below:

再来看看表背，21k金打造中央自动盘上饰有百达翡丽标记，内部搭载的28-520 IRM QA 24H机芯是单向上弦，令人印象非常深刻。大卫·布雷丹（David Bredan）在介绍前作的不锈钢款时也提到里这款机芯，我将在下面简单介绍他对这一机芯的总结：

"The movement inside (and take a deep breath now) is the completely in-house manufactured CH 28-520 IRM QA 24. That translated into watch-terminology means that the movement comprises a flyback chronograph, an annual calendar, a power-reserve indication (for what the brand notes as anything between 45 and 55 hours, likely depending on for how long the chronograph is in operation), and also a day-night indication. Its base movement contains 302 components, while the clever (and only 2.48 mm thick) annual calendar module adds another 154 parts to that."

“这款机芯CH 28-520 IRM QA 24H（深呼吸准备好啦）完全是自主研发的。在手表圈中就意味着这款机芯，包括一个飞返计时，年历，动力储备（至少45小时最多55小时，可能取决于计时码表的使用时间），以及昼夜显示，其基础机芯部分包含302个组件，更巧妙的是只有2.48 毫米厚的年历模组构成了机芯另外的154个部分。

Price for the Patek Philippe 5960/1A Annual Calendar Chronograph in steel with black dial is unchanged at 45,000 CHF, which is just a hair over the same amount in US dollars. Considering this is the newer model, I haven’t seen many out there (although there are several white dial models available on the resale market). Time will tell if one or the other holds value better, but it will be interesting to see what Patek unveils next with their new products geared towards the younger market. patek.com

这款黑色表盘的百达翡丽5960/1A复杂功能时计腕表的价格为45,000瑞士法郎，人民币384300元。考虑到这是最新的表款，我还没见过几个人佩戴（虽然在转售市场上出现过几款白色表盘的表款）。时间会告诉我们，如果这几款能够有好的保值，那么关注百达翡丽接下来将推出的面向年轻市场的新腕表肯定会分非常有趣！

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