一个人的进藏之路(今生我首次进藏的所见所闻所感所悟)

今生我首次进藏的所见所闻所感所悟,今天小编就来说说关于一个人的进藏之路?下面更多详细答案一起来看看吧!

一个人的进藏之路(今生我首次进藏的所见所闻所感所悟)

一个人的进藏之路

今生我首次进藏的所见所闻所感所悟

What I saw, heard, felt and understood during my first visit to Tibet

去西藏!到拉萨去朝拜布达拉宫!几多年前都有这心愿,福薄事囧,总为几两碎银惆怅慌张,没闲又缺钱,总不能起行!如今公司黄了工作辞了,蹇居保定,郁闷非常,饮酒食肉,道业几近荒芜,杨絮横飞,眼角瘙痒,鼻子招之过敏,喷嚏接连,俯身拱背,涕泪恣肆,咽疼头沉,真的不爽,靴城小地儿,转无可转,赏无可赏,尝无可尝。疫情闹的,五台去不了,不如趁最近有闲,去西藏,三千五百公里,说走就走,石家庄北站转了车,Z21,一天一夜加13个小时共37个小时车程。活这么大我还没坐过这么长时间火车,好在有闲,慢慢晃荡吧,窗外风景也可以游览下,去去心中郁气,换换心境。

Go to Tibet! Go to Lhasa to worship the Potala Palace! Many years ago, I had this wish. When I was in trouble, I was always worried about a few pieces of silver. I had no time and no money, so I couldn't start! Now that the company has quit its job, it is hard to live in Baoding. It is very depressed. It is drinking and eating meat. The Taoist industry is almost deserted. Yang Xu flies everywhere, the corners of his eyes itch, the nose is allergic, sneezes one after another, bends over his back, tears are wanton, the throat hurts and the head is heavy. It is really unpleasant. There is no turning around in the boot City, no appreciation, no taste. With the outbreak, Wutai can't go. It's better to take advantage of the recent leisure time to go to Tibet. It's 3500 kilometers. You can leave at any time. You can transfer to z21 at Shijiazhuang north station. It takes a total of 37 hours to drive one day and one night plus 13 hours. I haven't been on the train for such a long time in my life. Fortunately, I'm free, so I can wander slowly. I can also visit the scenery outside the window to get depressed and change my mood.

昨天晚上8点高铁到石家庄,打车到石家庄北,22:38检票发车,车上人不多,硬座上歪靠蜷躺凑活了一夜,今早凌晨四点醒了,漱口洁面,默诵了一部长寿经,不觉又倦乏了,躺平又睡了,6点多又醒了,泡面大饼就大葱吃了一顿算是早餐。

At 8:00 last night, the high-speed railway arrived in Shijiazhuang and took a taxi to the north of Shijiazhuang. At 22:38, the ticket check-in departure. There were not many people on the bus. The hard seat reclined and curled up for the whole night. This morning, I woke up at 4:00 a.m., rinsed my mouth and cleaned my face, and recited a long life Sutra. I was tired and tired. I lay flat and slept. I woke up again at 6:00 a.m., and I ate green onions with instant noodles and pancakes, which was regarded as breakfast.

这时14:32火车马上到西宁站了,路上风光还没到景秀处,无尽都是黑突突山丘,山上石多土少,显得较为贫瘠,山上无树少草,山脚低处间或有鹅黄细嫩小柳树点缀,加之有些路段开上几株粉桃白梨,才觉得春风也到了西北陲。中午辣辣的有点热了,窗外循环不尽的山山壑壑,沟沟坎坎,天地间灰黑为底色,间或涂抹着几处春色。

At 14:32 at this time, the train arrived at Xining station. The scenery on the road had not yet reached the scenic spot. There were black and bumpy hills on the road. The mountains were barren with more rocks and less soil. There were no trees and less grass on the mountains. At the foot of the mountain, there were small yellow and delicate willows. In addition, several pink peaches and white pears were planted on some roads. It was only then that the spring breeze reached the northwest. It's a little hot at noon. There are endless mountains, gullies, gullies and canyons outside the window. The gray and black between the heaven and the earth is the background color, and sometimes some spring colors are smeared.

进入青海,景色陡然不同,苍莽阔野,山与地浑黄一色,山势雄峻巍峨,虎踞龙盘,也如巨兽趴伏,只因此地缺水干旱,周山上下无青草绿树,缺乏生机,否则堪舆师们早寻得几处吉穴龙地货与帝王富贵家。青海湖是大戈壁中的一泓清流,是群山峻岭中的一颗天然翡翠,远眺湖水湛蓝,清澈如琉璃,哪位有福报龙王居住如此惬意宫殿?青海湖静谧无澜,晏然柔寂,与风沙飞滚的戈壁风貌有一种违和感,好比粗犷汉子配俏美娇娘。青海湖畔,牦牛绵羊,群群簇簇,低头啮草,此时这里的春天还在路上,青青的、红红的这两种春天主色调还未被春姑娘调匀涂抹在这块儿广袤底板上,我看牛羊啃嚼的都还是干枯黄草,天苍苍野茫茫,风吹草低见牛羊,果真如此,想象中的蒙古包没有,城市进步了,取而代之都是矮矮的砖房,稀疏的点缀在原野上,往往是两排平房,一排应是牛羊厩舍,一排应是住人的。

When entering Qinghai, the scenery is suddenly different. The mountains and the ground are yellow. The mountains are majestic and towering, and the tigers are crouching on the dragon's plate. They are also like giant animals. The only reason is that the land is short of water and dry. There are no green grass and trees on the surrounding mountains, and there is no vitality. Otherwise, the Geomatics masters would have found several Jixue dragon land goods and the rich families of the emperors. Qinghai Lake is a clear stream in the great Gobi and a natural emerald in the mountains. Overlooking the lake from afar, the water is blue and clear as glass. Who is blessed to report that the Dragon King lives in such a comfortable palace? Qinghai Lake is quiet and gentle. It has a sense of harmony with the desert scenery of the wind and sand. It is like a rough man with a beautiful girl. On the Bank of Qinghai Lake, yaks and sheep are swarming and gnawing at grass. At this time, the spring here is still on the road. The two main colors of green and red have not been evenly painted on the vast floor by spring girl. I see that the cattle and sheep are still chewing on dry yellow grass. The sky is vast and the grass is blowing. If so, the imagined yurt is not there. The city has progressed and replaced by short brick houses, Scattered on the field, there are usually two rows of bungalows, one row should be cattle and sheep stables, and the other row should be residential.

夕阳下,应是风吹沙扬,天日朦胧,偶见丝缕水流河汊,色如水银,条条斑斑,竟然还瞥见了骆驼,八九只,皮毛棕黄。至此,羊群、牦牛、红马、骆驼、风马旗、白佛塔、风沙、戈壁滩,我认为的构成“西域风情”之“八大件”,齐了。德令哈站对面山头的风马旗,从山顶扯到地面,三四十米长,条条缕缕,呼呼啦啦,印象深刻,西部信仰氛围至此渐渐浓郁。

Under the setting sun, it should be the wind blowing and the sand blowing. The sky is hazy. Occasionally, there are streaks of water flowing in the river. The color is like mercury. There are eight or nine camels with brown fur. So far, the sheep, yaks, red horses, camels, fengma banner, white pagoda, wind sand and Gobi desert, which I think constitute the "eight major parts" of the "western customs", have been completed. The fengma banner on the mountain opposite Delingha station is 30 to 40 meters long, stretching from the top of the mountain to the ground. It is very impressive, and the religious atmosphere in the West has gradually become strong.

在西宁站,遇到了5-6个结伴而行的藏族小青年,其中一个女孩蓦地跑到我对面询问此空位有无人坐?我说无人,因此搭上话,和她形影不离的还有另外一个女孩,她俩显然是闺蜜,都是黝黑的皮肤,洁白的牙齿,略显凌乱的头发,真诚的笑容,这就是藏族同胞,我也觉得亲切,就给她们两个闲聊了起来,其中一个叫永忠卓玛,另外一个叫次仁巴姆,卓玛17岁,巴姆21岁,他们是从西宁上车,到拉萨下车,然后转汽车回老家日喀则,从认识她们到终点站拉萨下车,约18小时,期间谈话时间并不多,加起来不超过1小时,更多的是因为高原反应引起的身体不适,倦怠嗜睡,13日晚餐时间,我给她们一行中3个人每人一个苹果。次日早上,离拉萨尚有整整半日路程,抑或是夜里有一段路程下雪降温还是火车爬高翻山高原反应加剧,所以14日早晨我还是爬起来默诵一部《佛说长寿经》,然后继续歪身蜷在窄短硬座上睡觉,大约8点多醒来,感觉头疼恶心乏力,见卓玛和巴姆正在吃早饭,早餐是她们在火车上买的,她们见我醒来坐起,分给我一碗米粥,我不要,执意给了2次,我就接过,掀去盖子,没筷子也没勺子,仰头将就着喝了,为表感谢,我又把两根黄瓜和一些饼干豆腐干等零食分给她们,喝过粥我又吃了一根黄瓜,高原反应依然不缓,吃黄瓜后我又睡了近一小时,起来后头疼加剧,陡觉胃中恶心,撑起身子去厕所吐了一通,之后向乘务员表达了吸氧诉求,不一会儿年轻俊朗乘务员拿来一根塑料吸氧管,一头帮我插在座位下面出氧口,一头教我打个结套进脖子随即把两个短短触头塞外鼻腔里,第一次“吸氧”,鼻腔里凉潄潄感觉。

At Xining railway station, I met 5-6 young Tibetans walking together. One of the girls suddenly ran across from me and asked if this seat was available? I said that there was no one, so I got in touch with her. There was another girl who was inseparable from her. They were obviously best friends. They were both dark skinned, white teeth, slightly messy hair, and sincere smiles. They were Tibetan compatriots. I also felt friendly, so I chatted with them. One of them was Yongzhong Zhuoma, the other was CIREN BAM. Zhuoma was 17 years old and bam was 21 years old. They got on the bus from Xining, Get off at Lhasa, and then transfer the bus back to their hometown Xigaze. It took about 18 hours from knowing them to getting off at the terminal station Lhasa. During this period, the conversation time was not much, and the total time was not more than 1 hour. It was more because of the physical discomfort, tiredness and sleepiness caused by the altitude reaction. On the 13th, I gave three of them an apple for dinner. The next morning, it was still half a day away from Lhasa, or there was a long way to go at night. It was snowing and cooling, or the train was climbing high and climbing over the mountains. The plateau reaction was aggravated. So on the morning of the 14th, I still got up and recited a Buddhist Sutra of longevity. Then I continued to curl up on a narrow hard seat and sleep. When I woke up at about 8:00, I felt headache, nausea and fatigue. I saw Zhuoma and bam eating breakfast, which they bought on the train, When they saw me wake up and sit up, they gave me a bowl of rice porridge. I didn't want it. I insisted on giving it twice. I took it, lifted the lid, and drank it without chopsticks or spoons. I looked up and gave them some snacks, such as two cucumbers and some biscuits and dried tofu. As a token of gratitude, I gave them another cucumber after eating the porridge. The altitude reaction was still not slow. After eating the cucumbers, I slept for nearly an hour. After getting up, my headache worsened, and I suddenly felt nausea in my stomach, After he got up and vomited in the toilet, he expressed his oxygen aspiration to the steward. Soon after, the young Junlang steward brought a plastic oxygen tube, one end of which helped me insert it into the oxygen outlet under the seat, and the other end taught me to tie a knot and put it into my neck. Then he put two short contacts into the nasal cavity. For the first time, he "breathed oxygen", and the nasal cavity felt cool.

一边吸氧,一边侧头窗外欣赏蓝天、高山、白云等,尤其是白云,相由心生,自念:“此千里迢迢进藏,主为朝佛,经两夜一昼半颠簸劳顿,即将到拉萨了”心中不由振奋虔诚起来,只看得很多白云壮若佛、菩萨、龙天护法,有的轮廓大致相像,有的确酷似,比如一朵云酷似立姿接引状阿弥陀佛,顶髻及手中莲台清晰可辨,有一朵云则像极了站立的杨枝观音,还有一朵云特别像一头牛,头角峥嵘,惟忖莫非牛王神珠天?还有其他像骑马的将军,当是某某护法神将……当然了,风吹云变,以上云图都是乍一看的二十秒内很像,过一会儿,就被风吹扯着变了其他模样,权当是一种心境折射吧,正应王国维大师讲的“寓情于景”,加之我天生想象力丰富,看见云朵示现幻化的三宝庄严法相,不禁掩面落泪,感叹殊胜!想起我于2018年游普陀洛迦山,持香绕五百罗汉塔后,举手机随意朝天空拍了一张,粗略端详一下,竟发现云彩形状分明演化成了一张观音老母慈祥的笑脸,眼睛唇鼻清晰可辨,就是一张慈祥微笑着老奶奶的人脸,笑脸下面还有合十的龙女和善财童子,最下面是普陀山全山主持妙善长老身披袈裟合十侧立像,越看越像,直呼不可思议,菩萨示现,无处不在!

While taking oxygen, I looked out of the window to enjoy the blue sky, mountains and white clouds, especially the white clouds, which were generated by my heart. I thought to myself: "I am a pilgrim from a long distance to Tibet. After two nights and a day and a half, I will soon arrive at Lhasa." I could not help being excited and pious. I only saw many white clouds as strong as Buddha, Bodhisattvas and dragon heaven Dharma protectors. Some of them are roughly similar in outline, and some are indeed similar. For example, a cloud looks like Amitabha Buddha standing in a leading position, The top bun and the lotus stand in the hand are clearly distinguishable. One cloud looks like a standing Yang Zhi Guanyin, and another cloud looks like a cow with towering horns. I wonder if it is the god pearl of the ox king? There are other generals like riding horses, who are the so and so Dharma protectors... Of course, the wind blows the clouds and changes them. The above clouds are very similar at first glance in 20 seconds. After a while, they are pulled by the wind and changed into other shapes. It should be a reflection of the state of mind. Just as Master Wang Guowei said, "love is in the scene", and I am naturally rich in imagination. When I see the clouds show the magic three treasures and solemn Dharma, I can not help but cry and sigh! When I visited putuoluojia mountain in 2018, I took a picture of the five hundred arhat Pagoda with incense. After taking a look at it, I found that the clouds were clearly shaped and evolved into a kind smiling face of the mother Guanyin. The eyes, lips and noses were clearly recognizable. It was the face of a kind and smiling grandmother. There were also ten dragon girls and good money boys under the smiling face, At the bottom is the Standing Statue of the master of Putuo Mountain, Miaoshan elder in cassock. The more you look at it, the more you look at it, the more incredible it is. Bodhisattvas are everywhere!

中午12:28终于到了拉萨站,37小时硬座旅程,终于单向完结,走出车厢,吸一口雪域空气,鱼贯出站,回头一望,拉萨车站背后群山环伺,山头积雪皑皑,此刻正值中午炙热时节,阳光明媚,火辣辣照在脸上,远处多点车体、后视镜等反光耀眼,不能直视,此情此景也独属拉萨!

At 12:28 noon, we finally arrived at Lhasa station. The 37 hour hard seat journey was finally one-way ended. We walked out of the carriage, took a breath of snow air, and fished out of the station. Looking back, we saw the mountains behind Lhasa station surrounded by snow. At this moment, it was hot at noon. The sun was bright and the fire was hot on our faces. The car body and rear-view mirror in the distance were dazzling, so we could not look directly at it. This scene is unique to Lhasa!

纵目眺景心情舒展不少,头疼也感觉缓释了不少。来之前网上报了一个当地旅行社,声称我到拉萨后他们亲自派专车接站并献上哈达,拉萨之行出发前,脑海里多次放映这种以前只在电视里见过的画面:“身着藏族服饰的青年小伙或少女,黑红的脸膛,笑语盈盈的双手给你献上洁白的哈达并双手合十道一句‘扎西德勒’……”,谁知一通扫码,张大口被棉棒一戳一搅做核酸外,根本没人迎接,更别提哈达,美好期待顷刻乌有,说好的专车接站变成了我和一位甘肃大爷拼滴滴,发短信给个车牌号让自己找,我找了几圈找不到火大,后来发短信又换了个厂牌号,上车才知道是随机叫的滴滴,甘肃大爷怀疑上错了车打电话询问了半天,一会电话一会儿语音的,车程半小时的话,大爷打电话给旅行社求证就打了29分钟,那甘肃大爷应该终究是信不过这旅行团,次日首天行程中没见到他。来之前的行程,到了拉萨旅行社就变,说好的某时某地签协议也不签,只催着补清尾款,14号中午到夜里12点,又是导游又是最初加微信给你推销的业务员又是自称旅行社工作人员的,恨不得5-6波人给你打电话,倒是“热情”,而当你真碰到困难因高原反应夜间头疼发烧时让他们出个人陪同去医院看看,他们明确表示不愿去,让自己打车去,打电话给酒店前台,也不管,第一晚头疼发烧,没办法自己硬撑着打车去了自治区人民医院,值班护士夹了手指显示缺氧,体温枪测温36.5,温度计夹胳肢窝,38.3,于是先进发热门诊,两个大白估计是因我的突然到访耽误了正常下班,语气不怎么好,夹杂着命令与厌倦,自主交费,做胸部CT、抽血化验、做核酸,检验结果出来前这两个小时我被安排在一间小铁皮房里吸氧,拉萨天黑的晚,去医院时6点天还很亮,待化验结果出来显示无碍被发热门诊放出来时,晚上快十点,天色尽黑,又去急诊挂号,医生给开了一盒药,又打车返回酒店,吃了一粒药,夹杂着头疼艰难的睡去。

Looking at the scenery, I feel relaxed and my headache is relieved. Before I came to Lhasa, I reported to a local travel agency on the Internet that after I arrived in Lhasa, they personally sent a special car to pick me up and offer hada. Before my trip to Lhasa, I had many pictures in my mind that I had only seen on TV before: "young men or girls dressed in Tibetan costumes, with black and red faces and smiling hands, presented you with white hada and said 'Zhaxidele'...." who knows, after a code scan, Zhang Dakou was poked and stirred by a cotton swab to make nucleic acid, but no one greeted him, let alone hada. The good expectation was immediately lost. The agreed bus pick-up turned into a fight between me and a Gansu uncle. I sent a text message to a license plate number to ask myself to find it. After several rounds of searching, I couldn't find Huoda. Later, I sent a text message to change the factory number, and only when I got on the bus did I know that it was a random Didi. Gansu uncle suspected that I had got on the wrong bus and called for a long time, After a half-hour's drive, my uncle called the travel agency for confirmation, and I called for 29 minutes. Then, Gansu uncle should not trust the tour group after all. I didn't see him on the first day of the next day. The itinerary before you came to Lhasa changed when you arrived at the travel agency. It was said that you would not sign an agreement at a certain time and place, but only urge you to make up the balance. From noon to 12 pm on the 14th, the tour guide, the salesman who initially added wechat to promote you, and the self proclaimed staff of the travel agency would like to have 5-6 waves of people call you. It is "warm". When you really encounter difficulties and have a headache and fever at night due to altitude sickness, ask them to send a personal escort to the hospital for a visit, They made it clear that they didn't want to go, so they took a taxi and called the front desk of the hotel. They didn't care about it. The first night they had a headache and a fever, and they couldn't take a taxi to the people's Hospital of the autonomous region. The nurse on duty took a finger to show hypoxia. The temperature gun measured 36.5, and the thermometer clamped the armpit, 38.3. So they went to the fever clinic. The two confessions were that my sudden visit delayed the normal work, and the tone was not very good, Mixed with orders and boredom, I paid for chest CT, blood test and nucleic acid. Two hours before the test results came out, I was arranged to take oxygen in a small iron room. It was dark in Lhasa, and it was still very bright at 6:00 when I went to the hospital. When the test results showed that there was no problem, I was sent out for a hot diagnosis. It was nearly 10:00 in the evening, and it was dark. I went to the emergency room to register. The doctor gave me a box of medicine and took a taxi back to the hotel to take a pill, Mixed with a headache, hard to sleep.

次日早晨,感觉轻了不少,正式开始第一天跟团旅游,说是林芝出现密接,去不了了,导游说上午去甘丹寺下午去林周县夏寺,第一天看着窗外的远山、溪流、青柳、牦牛、庄稼地里劳作的同胞,还有远处风马旗等藏地景致,听着导游一路还算卖力的讲解,一车同行11人心情也挺兴奋,接近12点满怀期待抵达甘丹寺进山口,被执勤人员拦下去路,说寺庙不开放,只好原路返回,心中不免怏怏,导游安排提前开饭,在高速服务区餐馆胡乱吃了顿,饭菜很一般。

The next morning, I felt a lot lighter. I officially started the first day of the tour with the group. It was said that Linzhi had a close contact and could not go there. The guide said that I would go to Gandan temple in the morning and Xiasi temple in Linzhou County in the afternoon. On the first day, I looked out the window at the distant mountains, streams, willows, yaks, compatriots working in the fields, and the distant scenery of Tibetan places such as fengma banner. I listened to the guide's hard explanation all the way. The 11 people in the car were also very excited, Near 12 o'clock, I arrived at the entrance of Gandan temple with great expectation, and was stopped by the staff on duty. They said that the temple was not open, so I had to return the same way. I was sad. The guide arranged to open a meal in advance, and ate a meal at the restaurant in the high-speed service area. The food was very ordinary.

吃罢饭去林周县夏寺,也不近,一个半小时才到,导游说是网红打卡地,寺庙不大,准确说很小,大殿供奉着说不出名的菩萨,中央供奉的佛像示现老者相,须发皆白,两侧环伺各四尊女性菩萨,峨冠博带,手捻秘印或手执法器,法相慈悲庄严,我赶紧拜了,献上些许微薄供品,因没提前准备,所谓供品不过是路上未吃尽的干粮,连从保定带的大饼都供了上去,显然不庄重,但随身只有这些,不成敬意,菩萨莫怪。

After dinner, we went to the Xiasi temple in Linzhou County, which was not close. It took an hour and a half to arrive. The guide said it was a place for online red cards. The temple was not large, but rather small. The main hall was dedicated to unknown Bodhisattvas. The Buddha statue in the Center showed the old man's face. The hair and hair were white. Four female Bodhisattvas were surrounded on both sides, including the e-crown Bodhisattvas, the secret seal or the law enforcement device. The Dharma was merciful and solemn. I quickly worshipped and offered some humble offerings. Because I had not prepared in advance, The so-called offerings are only dry food that has not been eaten up on the road. Even the big cakes brought from Baoding are offered. Obviously, they are not solemn. But they are the only things you can carry with you. It is not a tribute. Bodhisattvas should not be surprised.

这是一座尼姑寺,刚赶上她们在厨房里吃午饭,导游带我们进去,显然我觉得有点干扰,呆了二分钟就出来了,她们用斋时也有欢笑,圆顶红袍,紫红的脸庞,清澈的眼神,隐居于大山中的一方梵寺,其福报和快乐也不是一般人能体会的,寺中石阶旁有一株桃花正盛开,白蕊朵朵,清秀独绝。夏寺之所以称为“网红打卡地”,主要因为寺旁塔群,佛塔大小高低不一,目测有十几座,均是印度塔式,不像西湖雷峰塔那样,这些塔阔肚尖顶,塔身圆柱,塔顶尖耸,塔身白色,塔尖棕红,塔最高者十几米,最低者高约3米,塔群四周为一大圈转经筒,共百余个,一边走一边转经一边绕塔,依佛经说必增福灭罪无量。

This is a nun temple. Just when they were having lunch in the kitchen, the guide took us in. Obviously, I felt a little disturbed. After two minutes, they came out. They also laughed when they were fasting. They had round red robes, purplish red faces and clear eyes. They lived in the Fangfan Temple in seclusion in the mountains. Their blessings and happiness were beyond ordinary people's understanding. There was a peach blossom in full bloom next to the stone steps in the temple. The white stamens were blooming and beautiful. The reason why Xia temple is called the "net red punch in place" is mainly because the pagodas beside the temple are different in size and height. There are more than a dozen pagodas, all of which are of Indian tower type. Unlike the Leifeng Pagoda in the West Lake, these pagodas have broad belly and sharp tops, cylindrical bodies, towering tops, white bodies and brown red tips. The highest one is more than 10 meters, and the lowest one is about 3 meters high. There are a large circle of prayer drums around the pagodas, with a total of more than 100. They walk around the pagodas while turning, According to the Buddhist Scripture, there is no limit to increase happiness and eliminate sin.

夏寺游览毕,大约下午三点多,返程,司机路不太熟,回程中迷路问路绕行几匝,后6点多回到拉萨,当晚我又发烧难受,又去了医院,这次我强硬要求旅行社派个人陪同一去,当然不乐意,后见我真难受,这旅行社里有个女孩,后自称是南阳老乡,二十二岁,还不错,就是她和一个成都男孩到医院与我会合,她俩陪我捱到次日凌晨快2点,感谢老乡。经此二晚,旅行社也让我退了团,故16日开始我独自旅行。

After visiting the summer temple, at about 3:00 p.m., the driver was not familiar with the road. On the way back, he lost his way and asked for directions for several turns. After 6:00 p.m., he returned to Lhasa. That night, I had a fever and went to the hospital again. This time, I strongly asked the travel agency to send someone to accompany him. Of course, I was not happy. Later, I saw that I was really sad. There was a girl in the travel agency who later claimed to be a fellow townsman in Nanyang. She was 22 years old and was not bad, It was she and a Chengdu boy who met me at the hospital. They stayed with me until nearly 2 o'clock in the morning of the next day. Thank you. After these two nights, the travel agency also asked me to leave the group, so I started traveling alone on the 16th.

第一站去扎基寺,财神殿,供奉的扎基拉姆,其形象有点特殊,好在几年前都知道扎基财神的传说,在门口摆摊人建议下买了一瓶酒,一条哈达和一捆香,走进大殿,随朝拜人流排队,把酒交给僧人,僧人把酒倒在一个大酒缸里面,哈达自己掷到财神身上,香拿到殿外大方炉里点燃插上,这边藏地信众手拿一包包的财神熏香将粉末倒在炉里,香气弥漫,白茫茫一大片,近前被熏的睁不开眼睛。扎基寺分3层,每一层间用木梯连接,梯子阶面及扶手光滑,足见信众络绎不绝。店里供奉的佛菩萨像造型与汉地不同,统称尼泊尔鎏金佛像,戴天冠,穿佛衣,细细腰身,尖俏鼻梁,周身铜制,当然很多佛像表面由真正黄金贴身,俗称“贴金”,我也走访了6个寺庙,供奉的佛像常见的大致有:历世达赖喇嘛、强巴佛、四臂观音、度母、尊胜佛母、大白伞盖佛母、明王护法类(六臂玛哈嘎拉、马头明王、格萨尔王等),当然不少佛像不认识,每个寺庙大殿很宽敞高大,地面与房顶有很多柱子支撑,僧人诵经的坐垫一排排,坐垫上放着红色僧衣坎肩和僧帽,信众供养主要以酥油为主,不少信徒手里提着一暖壶酥油,每到一个巨大灯盏面前都往里面添点油,藏民每个人都手持一串念珠,走起路来,嘴里念着咒语,他们在寺庙里拜佛念念有词。藏地的寺庙从空间感来说,空间填充比较盈满,供品、物件比较多,佛像前面的走廊多不很宽,有的想跪地磕个头都感觉容身不下。藏地信众也少见有跪地磕头的,他们多是合十欠身或站着以额碰一下佛龛,但布达拉宫广场上或大昭寺门口总是不乏三步一拜磕大头的藏地信众,不管男女老少都有着虔诚纯洁的佛教信仰,尤其是耄耋之年的藏族老人,头发雪白,满脸皱纹,梳着辫子,左手持念珠,右手转着经筒,步履蹒跚坚持行进在朝圣路上,有的拄拐杖依然精神矍铄走着,令人钦佩和动容。

The first stop is Zaki temple, the God of wealth hall. The image of Zaki ram worshipped is a little special. Fortunately, we all knew the legend of Zaki God of wealth a few years ago. At the suggestion of the stall man at the door, we bought a bottle of wine, a hada and a bundle of incense, entered the main hall, lined up with the pilgrims, and handed the wine to the monks. The monks poured the wine into a large wine jar, and hada threw it on the God of wealth himself. The incense was taken to the large stove outside the hall to be lit and inserted, The believers in the hiding place here poured the powder into the furnace with bags of incense from the God of wealth. The fragrance was diffused, and the vast expanse of white was so thick that they could not open their eyes. Zhaji temple is divided into three floors, and each floor is connected by wooden ladders. The ladder steps and handrails are smooth, which shows that there are an endless stream of believers. The statues of Buddha and Bodhisattva worshipped in the shop are different from those in Han China. They are collectively referred to as the gilded Buddha statues of Nepal, wearing a crown, a Buddha's clothes, a thin waist, a sharp nose bridge, and a bronze body. Of course, many Buddha statues are made of real gold, commonly known as "gilded gold". I also visited 6 temples. The common Buddha statues worshipped are: the Dalai Lama, the Qiangba Buddha, the four arm Guanyin, the Tara, the Zunsheng Buddha mother, the big white umbrella Buddha mother Ming King Dharma protector (six arm mahagala, horse head Ming king, Gesar king, etc.), of course, many Buddhist statues do not know. The main hall of each temple is very spacious and tall, with many pillars supporting the ground and roof. The monks recite scriptures in rows of cushions, on which are placed red monk's jackets and hats. The believers mainly provide butter. Many believers carry a warm pot of butter, and add some oil to each huge lamp, Each of the Tibetans holds a string of prayer beads and walks with incantations in his mouth. They worship the Buddha and chant words in the temple. From the perspective of space, the temples in Tibet are full of space, and there are many offerings and objects. The corridor in front of the Buddha statues is not very wide. Some people want to kneel down and kowtow and feel that they can't fit. It is also rare for Tibetan believers to kneel down and kowtow. Most of them bend over or stand and touch the Buddhist niche with their foreheads. However, there are always Tibetan believers who kowtow in three steps on the Potala Palace Square or at the entrance of the Jokhang Temple. No matter men, women, old or young, they have devout and pure Buddhist beliefs. In particular, the Tibetan old people who are 80 years old have snow-white hair, wrinkled faces, braided hair, a rosary in their left hand and a sutra tube in their right hand, Walking on the pilgrimage road, some of them are still hale and hearty with crutches, which is admirable and moving.

离开扎基寺我紧接着去了色拉寺,挺大的寺庙,有两个大殿,其中一个大殿需要排队,队伍排了很长,也很拥挤,大殿内空间很大,依然是红色柱子红色僧衣,金铜佛像,镶嵌各种宝石玛瑙的金质灵塔。四面墙壁上是珍贵壁画或唐卡,车轮大的酥油灯盏,在色拉寺我见到了那尊著名的马头明王,我曾打印图片供奉过,今个终于见到真身了!藏传佛教博大精深,在汉地接触的毕竟有限,很多寺庙的伟大殊胜之处除过感觉还是感觉,说不上来为什么精妙?我还去了小昭寺、布达拉宫、哲蚌寺、乃琼寺、大昭寺,小昭寺供奉着佛祖八岁等身像,不来肯定永远见不到真身,小昭寺里僧人的僧服僧帽比较迥异,不同于其他寺庙,高原缺氧,走路走快了会喘,在佛前跪身拜下再起立就感觉有点头晕目眩,想起我在汉地五台山、普陀山朝佛拜佛时那种生龙活虎,身躯矫健状态,真是不能比,一个缺氧和高原反应就把身体拖的很疲惫,所以在拉萨寺庙能坚持慢慢走着慢慢拜着也不能不算虔诚。

After leaving Zaji temple, I went to sera temple. It was a large temple. There were two main halls. One of the main halls needed to queue up. The queue was long and crowded. The space in the main hall was large. There were still red columns, red monks' clothes, gold bronze Buddha statues, and gold stupas inlaid with various gems and agates. There are precious murals or thangkas on the four walls, and butter lamps with big wheels. I saw the famous horse head Ming king in sera temple. I printed pictures for worship. Now I finally see the real person! Tibetan Buddhism is broad and profound. After all, it has limited contact with the Han people. Apart from feeling, the great and unique features of many temples can not be explained why they are exquisite? I also went to Xiaozhao temple, Potala Palace, Drepung temple, Naiqiong temple and Jokhang Temple. Xiaozhao Temple worships the Buddha's eight year old body, and I'm sure I'll never see the real body. The monks in Xiaozhao Temple wear different clothes and hats. Different from other temples, they lack oxygen on the plateau, and will gasp when walking fast. I feel a little dizzy when kneeling in front of the Buddha and then standing up. I think of the lively and vigorous manner when I worship the Buddha at Wutai Mountain and Putuo Mountain in Han, It's really incomparable that the body is in a healthy state. A lack of oxygen and altitude reaction will drag the body very tired. Therefore, it can't be considered pious to walk slowly and worship slowly in Lhasa temple.

我在哲蚌寺逗留时间最长,我于17号中午打的到达哲蚌寺山门口,扫码过安检,拒绝坐车上山,选择徒步上山,山坡不陡,但走不太快,估计半小时走到寺庙门口,哲蚌寺也是依山而建,山壁上有不少磨崖彩绘的佛像、經咒、吉祥图案,我在大殿里再次被洗礼和净化,拜佛时念及“我这次来,高原反应导致身体不适挺严重,我下次还会再来吗,这么好的佛像我恐怕再也拜不了了”,不禁悲从心起,涕泗横流。心中同时涌起“人生无常、人身难得、佛法难闻”三句教义。走完大殿我沿着山后石阶转了一圈慢慢下山,下到半山时开始飘雪,等下到山脚时鹅毛大雪纷纷扬扬,下的越来越紧了,一个藏族阿姨也刚从山上下来脚步匆匆从我跟前走过,看着她那背影消失在风雪中我不禁莫名感动,这是种信仰的力量带给我的感动。

I stayed at Drepung temple for the longest time. I took a taxi to the gate of Drepung temple at noon on the 17th, scanned the code and passed the security check. I refused to go up the mountain by car and chose to walk up the mountain. The slope is not steep, but it is not too fast. It is estimated that I will walk to the gate of the temple in half an hour. Drepung temple is also built on the mountain. There are many Buddha statues, mantras and auspicious patterns painted on the cliff. I was baptized and purified again in the main hall, When worshiping the Buddha, he said, "I've come here this time, and the altitude reaction has caused serious physical discomfort. Will I come again next time? I'm afraid I can't worship such a good Buddha again." he could not help but feel sad and shed tears. At the same time, the three doctrines of "impermanence of life, rarity of human body, and bad smell of Buddhism" came into my mind. After walking through the main hall, I made a circle along the stone steps behind the mountain and slowly went down the mountain. When I got down to the middle of the mountain, the snow began to fall. When I got down to the foot of the mountain, the goose feather snow was falling in profusion, and it was getting tighter and tighter. A Tibetan aunt had just come down from the mountain and hurried past me. I couldn't help but be inexplicably moved when I saw her back disappear in the wind and snow. This is the power of faith.

在布达拉宫我见到了最大的五世达赖灵塔,在大昭寺我见到了佛祖12岁等身像,游客距离安奉佛祖等身像6-7米,佛祖供奉在一间独立殿堂里,殿门用大铁帘遮映,周身黄金,刚好碰到有一个年轻女信众出钱刷金粉贴金,我也想凑前近距离瞻仰,被摆手示意不让。随喜赞叹这位女信众发心及功德。大昭寺门口聚集了不少磕大头朝拜的信众,俯身拜下,身体往前一推,再起身,合十俯身再拜下,几十位信众,同时拜佛,此起彼伏,蔚为壮观。

In the Potala Palace, I saw the largest stupa of the fifth Dalai Lama. In the Jokhang Temple, I saw the 12-year-old statue of the Buddha. The tourists were 6-7 meters away from the statue of the Buddha. The Buddha was worshipped in an independent hall. The door of the hall was covered with a large iron curtain and covered with gold. I happened to meet a young female believer who paid money to brush gold powder and gold. I also wanted to pay close attention to it. I was waved not to let it go. I was pleased to praise this female believer for her dedication and merits. Many worshippers kowtow and worship at the entrance of the Jokhang Temple. They bow down, push their bodies forward, stand up, and bow down again. Dozens of worshippers worship the Buddha at the same time, one after another, which is magnificent.

我的入藏朝圣之旅也就这样了,没想的那么顺利,倒也算是圆满,每个内地同胞来西藏都有高原反应,但我也不是最严重那个,反而这才显得难能可贵,西藏很大很神秘,比作大海,我只取了一瓢,希望以后还能再入藏参学。

My pilgrimage to Tibet was just like this. It was not as smooth as I thought, but it was also a complete one. Every compatriot from the mainland came to Tibet with altitude sickness. But I was not the most serious one. On the contrary, it was commendable. Tibet is very big and mysterious. Compared with the sea, I only took a ladle. I hope I can enter Tibet again to study.

,

免责声明:本文仅代表文章作者的个人观点,与本站无关。其原创性、真实性以及文中陈述文字和内容未经本站证实,对本文以及其中全部或者部分内容文字的真实性、完整性和原创性本站不作任何保证或承诺,请读者仅作参考,并自行核实相关内容。文章投诉邮箱:anhduc.ph@yahoo.com

    分享
    投诉
    首页